Parcs National

Since Toliara we've been camping and traveling through four national parks: Isalo, Anja, Andringitra, et Ranomafana. At Isalo we saw lots of interesting rock formations, swam in a natural piscine, and went on a sunrise walk to see the canyon from above. In Anja an Irish man from an English university joined our crew, Bary Ferguson. He's working on his PhD in the Mandrare Valley region in community based ecotourism. We had two formal lectures from him, but also spent a lot of time just picking his brain. He's been in/around Madagascar for quite some time and was very open to oour questions/ goofing off. In Anja we also saw some cliff tombs that were both beautiful and impressive. Coffins 100s of feet up in eroded pockets of rock.

In Andringitra we a saw different variant of lemur catta, and climbed Madagascar's second highest peak-- Imarivolanitra (2658m) "close to the heavens." It was formerly named after a researcher's dog, Pk. Boby. I'm glad they renamed it. We also saw several different chameleon's all no bigger than my pointer finger. One was digging a hole to lay her eggs in!

Ranomafana literallly means hot water, and is the most touristy of all the parcs we visited. We ran into bus groups going on guided tours-- a little bizarre to see so many pale skinned Europeans. Here we saw the Golden Bamboo lemur, chameleons, frogs, and a harmless snake that was going to eat a chameleon. PS the snails here are HUGE...about the size of a fat twinkie. I also got to see up close another species of mouselemur on a night walk. I know they're wild animals, but dang it was cute. We also got a lecture from BioVal, a nonprofit working in/around RanomafanThis whole journey between parcs was filled with farmland, mostly rice cultivation. and lots of burning. It's ironic to see a sign to enter a parc, andlook around to see the hills smoking...

I feel as if I am beginning to synthesize information and experiences more. Understanding situations in order to ask critical questions, etc. Also have realized more about my presence here. I was not warned that because I am white and female that I would be hit on almost mercilessly. Because of this, I have to walk down the street with determination, and learn how to give people rather evil stares. I'm used to being nice to people... How do I show love to people with such a culture and language barrier?

I've also realised that I probably sounded a bit critical or depressed about the village stay. Although that is accurate and those observations are real...they are not the whole picture. I just happened to be interviewing villagers about a part of their life that is really DIFFICULT. there are many others aspects of their lives that are joyful and beautiful. Maybe I'm coming to appreciate those things more now? There is beauty in the breakdown that exists here--- and the breakdown that exists across the globe. I've also thought a lot about what the word development means. Surprisingly enough, there are many people working/helping out here that haven't thought about it.

Oddly enough, the group of American students here has made me think about who I am...They see such a small portion of what I think of as myself, and most of those factors are external: I have an eyebrow ring, I don't smoke, I love mountains and rocks, I'm the one who knows a little about plants, and i'm more of a tomboy.... BUt ultimately I am a daughter of God, a sister to others, and a woman of God.God has made me with love, and continues to make me resilient and beautiful. I've been able to say this to others a lot: you areloved, you are cared for, you are beautiful. BUt I don't know how much I've been able to receive this, think this about myself. So....I'm receiving. and it's really nice.


Red dirt scraping the earth
Colonial vocabulary howling by
palm, brick, shelter
and soft pierced ears.
There is no forest.
There is no forest.
There is no forest.
Rice moves higher jusqu'a
Mountains collapse on themselves
as bodies churn.

Feet pound again, and again.
Circle forms, souffle fort et sharp
Hands tremor, tremble, raised high
Joy greets Pain: familiar smile and knowing eyes.
Mamapriza grunts a nod
pounding, tako, grinding, tako

My vazaha mind is a ball and chain around my throat.
How do I say I love you?
I'm leaving soon and I need to say I love you.
My soul is choking on the words.

Western law calls itself Jesus.
Top down shalls and shall-nots
You know, there is a dead body on that cross.
His feet were dirty too.
Don't fix me.
Scars on scars on hearts from failed operations.
Brothers, sisters, please,
down to the river to pray.
Dad's waiting with open eyes.